Monthly Archive for December, 2007

Jesus Just Might Have Had Coffee Here

In Antakya, Turkey, our last planned stop before Syria, we stayed with Sakine–a friend of Fevy, our host in Antalya–and her sisters:

three-sisters.JPG

Feygin, Jaylin (we called her JLo) and Sakine, not yet married, all lived with their mother in a large flat, where they lit a fire to take a shower and drove each other around in a fifteen year-old car. They didn’t mind sharing a bedroom, because it also meant sharing expenses. Most amusing, the girls were tough-skinned, teasing each other (and eventually us) mercilessly, as they drove in the rain, from one nargile bar, restaurant or tourist site to another, JLo singing and movie quoting the whole way. A big Sunday breakfast, a space heater for sleeping, a trip to the coast and a Christmas tree (!) also made for endless good times in Antakya.

Proven  by the pillow fight (WHICH TOOK PLACE IN A RESTUARANT) below.

pillow-fight-one.jpg

This near-the-Syrian-border town also marked a cultural shift, as the pepper paste became spicier, the hummus more plentiful (hallelujah!) and the Kunefe, a cheese, syrup and pastry dessert, more obligatory. In addition, this family was Alevi, a 15 million-strong religious and cultural community in Turkey. Alevi is profoundly influenced by humanism, where women and men are equal and the focus is on uniting with God during ceremonies including music and dance. Some consider Alevism a type of Shi’a Islam since Alevis accept Shi’i beliefs about Imam Ali.

Finally, and perhaps most profoundly, we began to realize just how sacred a ground we were beginning to cover in this part of the world.

The Church of St. Peter (merely a cave and rocky Indiana Jones-like escape tunnel) is widely believed to have been dug by Peter (yes, the Apostle!) for the budding Christian community of Antakya (then Antioch), where he and Paul (yes, the other important Apostle!) preached around 50 A.D.

It is rumoured that the inhabitants of Antioch were the first to call Jesus’ followers “Christians” (Acts 11:26).

outside-c-osseman-250h.jpg

(I did not take the picture above)

healing-water-peter-paul-church-antakya-oldest.jpg

But I did take this one–me taking water from the allegedly healing water of a dripping pool in the corner of the church/grotto.

With such Christian roots, we decided to look a little harder for any current Catholicism. And after a windy walk through the medina,

blue-door-antakya.jpg

we found it.

catholic-sign-antakya.jpg

Their guesthouse was without heat, and even then, unfortunately too expensive for our hobo blood, but we visited their altar and Michael video’d and photographed and spoke at length with other parishioners, including a French woman who was WALKING on a pilgrimmage from France to Jerusalem.

Our Syrian border story coming soon. . . .

Local Faces

woman-bananas.JPGOur Buying bananas straight from the plantation.

hitchhiking-men.JPG

Our hitchhiking host (left) along the switchbacks and dreary seacoast towns of Mediterranean Turkey.

Day 56

grandmothers-of-kids.JPG

We are at the end of the beginning. On the road for over fifty six days, our life is predictably unpredictable. Here’s how one day unfolded:

7:00 Michael’s watch alarm goes off.

7:25 We get up. High energy costs mean bedrooms are typically pretty cold, so unless there’s a room heater, I sleep in my clothes. No need to get dressed. I brush my teeth and hair and put the blankets back on the bed (we have long since stopped mourning the lack of sheets). It has rained quite frequently on our trip, so I retrieve my windbreaker and make sure my half-gloves are in the pockets—the kind that homeless people usually wear. It is Saturday. Last time I showered? Wednesday night.

7:45: Tejad asks us if we have everything. He does not live here. Fuat does. But we stayed with Tejad the night before we moved here and he slept over. And yesterday, another guy, Oz, gave us a tour of the mosque, explained why it was $130 to fill up a car with gas here and found us rain ponchos. Tejad is a tall, half-bearded 22-year old studying economics in Adana and is very inclined to laugh. He can recite the Denver Nuggets roster and until last night thought that they were named after McDonald’s famous chicken meal. He’s also a huge fan of the show How I Met Your Mother. We’d never heard of it yesterday, but by now have seen six episodes.

8:00: We are on a city bus to the train station. Tejad insisted on accompanying us there because we are helpless tourists.

8:30: At the station, we buy two tickets to Iskendar for about $10. It’s not much, but we wince as this is the first time we’ve paid for transportation since Day 14.

8:45: Tejad leaves us and Michael goes to get breakfast. Small cheese pastries and a cup of plain yogurt.

10:09: Pretending to read. A complete stranger gives her baby to six college-age kids on the train and they pass the baby around, cooing and giggling before handing him back.

10:15: Having bonded over the child, the kids begin to ask us questions by first huddling over a pen and newspaper then presenting us with sentences they have formed in English. They go something like this:

Are you want US be in Iraq?

You like Amedinijad?

Rapport quickly develops as they giggle and practice their English. They are all cousins—Emre, Ibrahim, Inur, Fudya and Hussein—coming home for the weekend from University.

You want come our house?

kids-and-michael.JPG

11:30: We are sitting on the floor in Fudya’s living room with eight Turkish kids eating spinach burek, cabbage, and potato soup. There is a lot of laughing and giddiness. THIS is traveling. Her home is in a small village—a walk, taxi and minibus ride from the train we got off in the middle of nowhere.

12:10: We are introduced to the ram they will slaughter next week for Korban Bayrami, the Muslim holiday.

12:15: We visit their football stadium, the village river, their parent’s orchard and more family members. Friends come by. Tea is served. There is a lot of cheek touching—the physical greeting here in Turkey. When Ibrahim’s sess his grandfather, he kisses his hand.

3:30: Using our SIM card in their phone, we call our hosts in Antakya (friends of a couchsurfer in Antalya) and have the kids explain our schedule.

4:30: We are on sitting on $5 bus to Antakya, a bag of 25 oranges in hand as well as a free new pair of socks (you have no idea how exciting that is) and a warm fuzzy feeling, looking out the window at three of our hosts who will not leave the station until we have safely departed. A horror movie (American of course) is playing on the bus television. We are soon offered chocolate cookies and Coke by the bus attendant.

kid-goodbye.JPG

6:00: Standing in a very dark parking lot, only a barber’s lights in sight. We need a phone to call Sakine.

6:02: After two phone calls, a lot of confusion, a barber shop visit, hovering taxi drivers, we are riding in a small white car through a very dark Antakya. We do not know the driver. He will not speak to us.The whole thing would have been very sketchy, but only because why would a very grumpy guy with a broken hand and no gas in his car be willing to drive total strangers to meet another total stranger in another part of town unless he was getting something out of the deal? But the answer to that is “because that guy is Turkish.” And that’s why there is nothing sketchy about this at all.

6:30: We meet smiley, energetic Sakine and Jaylin, two of the three sisters who will host us for two nights (which turned into four) in this much more Middle Eastern city near the Syrian border which claims to be home to the very first church in the entire world. Peter and Paul apparently hung out here.

Night 56 will have to be another blog.

Those People You Complain About

“We have fish. Very nice fish. I can cook for you with corn, wheat corn.”

Fish sounds dreamy but is usually way beyond our budget. We exchange concerned glances.

“How much?”

“I make whole meal for $12 together. We have very nice wine here in Anamure.”

“How much?

“Ten lira for you”

(Alcohol is a big splurge for us. It’s been a long time since we’ve had a beer. We don’t say anything.)

“We have breakfast here in morning.”

“How much?”

“Ummm, 3.5 Lira”

(We consider. We just bargained the pension for 20 lira, down from 30, because we skipped breakfast and heat. Now he wants 7 lira for breakfast?)

“You are American?”

“Yes. Ben Americaleem,” we say in Turkish.

“Because usually America my best customers, spend lots of money, (he pantomimes throwing money into the air). Where are you from? Homeless part of America?”

“No,” we say, looking at each other and realizing just how cheap we’ve become. “We from Denver.”

A Question. . .

Is it better to be

1) a trusting soul and occasionally get burned or

2) a suspicious soul who always comes out ahead in the end.

No one fits neatly into either category, but if you had to lean, which way would it be? And why?

As someone who is now very dependent on the kindness of others, this is on my mind.

Giving Credence

fullmoon.jpgWait, where are we going again?

A tribal circle. In honor of the full moon. To pray for world peace.

Right.

I saw a bad moon rising. Earlier.That day. After picking olives and finding the abandoned, hard-shelled houses of turtles and snails in the earth. Scraping my skin against the metal of the tree markers. Combing the tree as I do my hair, tugging at the knots of olives and waiting for the satisfying plop. Smashing olives with my bare feet. My purple-tinsel scarf wound around my head like a gypsy.

But trouble was not on the way. Tonight there will be nothing but a tribal circle in the round, stone wall dwelling in the orchard. The smoke of burning sage will be tossed into my fleece. I will sit, unspeaking, on a mat, staring at the well-tended fire for hours. I will meditate. I will struggle to get settled-I mean situated. I will see faces in the coals.
What do you see?

There was no earthquake. No lightning. Not nasty weather. Nothing all that dramatic. But there was the sound of palm to drum and a child’s cough. The rhythm of shoes in the dirt. The music of a far-away Turkish wedding. The rooster’s insistent cockadoodledoos. The sound of Michael’s breathing.

Don’t come round tonight. And I didn’t. Not there. It wasn’t my time. I had both feet on the ground. No floating or zoning or rising. I was merely an observer, looking in. Others stared into their own possibilities. I just kept staring at the moon.

It’s bound to take your life. No, but I can see how they thought the moon might. I was giving it power with my own energy And receiving. . .something back. Staring like I’d never seen it before. It was no longer the moon, but the perfectly round polka-dot-on-a-dress sized window to another world. The pure white light of another galaxy. I felt so small, but part of something so big. Humbled and empowered. In one moment. And the gravity of my thoughts drug me to the ground. Kept me there. Clutching the earth.

There’s a bad moon on the rise. It was still going up when we left the circle and held each other’s soft, gloved doll-hands down the orchard path at 1AM. That’s when we saw the Yakaba horse. Calmly eating grass in the moonlight, shimmering olive branches between its head and the sky. A creature of the universe. Like me. Like Michael.

And I. . kkkkk. . .kkkk. . . . I felt the energy kick in. The connection. The current through all of us. For just a few seconds. Before it slipped through my fingers once again.

Damn Good Energy

ebru-shoes.jpg pinkshoe.jpg redstring.jpg

Ebru makes felt shoes, which are especially good for pregnancy—easy on the back and the calves. Kind to the soles. She is little. And seems quite serious, but then she has this wonderful shy, pink-skinned laugh that makes you feel like she is not only enjoying this very moment, but that she just remembered that time when you took a road trip to San Francisco together, even though you have just met today.

We sat on the terrace on my last day at Yakaba and she told me a little bit about her life. She resides in a wooden, handmade home high-beamed-with-stunning-views-and-massive windows kind of Steamboat, Colorado cabin without the hunting trophies and hot tub. But she, her husband and child travel frequently. Ebru carries sea salt and around her neck, ebru.JPGfrom commune to commune, where she learns to make something out of nothing. Ebru weaves her own sweaters and striped leg warmers and she seems to have been born in a big fuzzy blanket. In the woods. In May. WITH an innate skill to find edible berries.

I see not a trace of ego, not a speck of the new age caricatures which, like a fly’s larvae on a pink-ripe pomegranate, can infect an otherwise promising persona in this environment. She is just serious about motherhood and health and happiness. Her hair is colored with henna, she hand-washes all her clothes and the other day, she threw away our salt. Just opened the silver pin-pricked top and paid no attention to our faces as it slid it into the garbage. No bravado in her eyes, only wisdom. I’m still not sure why regular salt is so bad.

As we drank Turkish coffee, I explained to her that when I very occasionally smoke, I prefer pre-fabricated cigarettes. All wrapped up in a cancerous package. That rolling cigarettes was kind of like eating wings. A lot of work and not enough payoff. But Ebru rolls these chemical-free cigarettes as if she was sketching the Duomo in Orvietto from a pension across the Italian alley. Her patience With Eri, her three year old imakes you stop and stare. She doesn’t speak a lot of English, but this did not stop us from talking about lemons and clove-flavored cupcakes and having babies and nudity at rainbow gatherings and the peaceful culture in Thailand. Or how to boil cauliflower and oranges for a nice salad. And it only makes the way she describes “connection” and “energy” with the word “electricity” and by pretending she is experiencing an electrocution, that much better.

*******************************************

But you know, there are individuals at Yakaba who possess some very different world views. For example, within hours of our arrival, we were told, without panic or persuasion, but with certainty and simplicity, that “according to the Mayan Calendar, the world is going to end and begin once again in December of 2012”.

We learned that the Gulf Stream had stopped. Europe would soon freeze. The bees had disappeared—that jar of honey you’re holding? It will be your last. World War Three—no, not in the figurative sense, in the real sense, a Hot War—had begun. September 11th had kicked it off. And it will not be long until the city people come rushing into the villages, here, where we already are, safe and sound.

George Bush is hardly mentioned, because there is a much bigger group causing us all to go to hell in a hand-woven basket—capitalists. Because capitalists use money and currency, well, that’s where life really begins to go wrong.

At Yakaba there is a lot of conversation about the evil of the “system”. This system is out to convince us that we need a v-neck sweater, a pair of Chacos, an extra-large coke, a bottle of Pantene shampoo, a BMW and a flat-screen television, when we absolutely do not. These voices want people to take responsibility for their actions. To consider the earth. To take care of their bodies and the environment. I understand. However, I’m not sure that the system is inherently evil for providing shampoo, electronics, clothing, shoes, cola and cars. Or that the advertising industry is evil for encouraging people to purchase them. This is how the world works. How an economy works. People, the kind they’re talking about, are educated. I beleive that they have a choice. And life is just a whole lot more complicated than a good-evil paradigm. breakfast-yakaba.jpg

But if you want a debate, head to YouTube. This is a feeling place. Conversations are less about details and more about visions. Ideas do not sit on a plate at the dinner table. They float in the air above us with the grape vines. Life is a thicket of theories on which to recline.

Plus, a big part of Yakaba’s atmosphere is acceptance. Everyone is on their own internal journey. A journey we all respect. Whether or not you like what energy emerges, it’s not your place to zig someone’s zag. In time, they may take care of that glitch themselves. Or perhaps as a result of their participation in your journey, it is you who will change.

Here, where one day feels somewhat like a long leisurely month of olive picking, tea drinking, dishes, orange-picking and keyif, the Turkish word for “idleness”, I respect nearly everyone I have met. These people do not get angry or swear very often. They don’t yell. They don’t really mind. When 12 more people arrive for dinner. When someone is hogging the computer. When you don’t clean up the dishes. When I forget to lock the gate. They pray before they eat. They make beautiful music. They work with their hands. They freely express themselves.. They avoid alcohol. They can make dessert out of orange zest.

They have shown me how little is worth getting pissed off about. And regardless of anything else, that’s some damn good energy.

Self Definition

rana.jpgDo you feel the oppression here in Turkey?

I choose not to feel it. We have a word, created in the last few years “Mahalle Baskisi”. It means the pressure a place exerts on its inhabitants.

When do you feel it?

In my wallet. Turkish identification cards require a religion. In my opinion, you might as well put your star sign or your favorite color. Why should your religion define you?

There was a survey and most people in this country defined themselves first as Muslim, then as Turkish, then as male.

How would you define yourself?

Well, my father was from Albania. He died when I was seven. My mother is from the Caucuses. But I was born here in Turkey. I guess that makes me Turkish, but I prefer to define myself as a member of the universe. A creature of the natural world. A human. I don’t like to define myself with a group, because this creates exclusion. It builds walls and boundaries. It means I’m NOT something else.

Do you feel Turkey’s oppression in other ways?

Well, if a woman who is wearing a full birka sees my bare arm, she instantly views me differently. As if I am a stranger. As if I am an alien. Not one of her kind. That sucks.

How old are you, Rana?

22. Just.

******************************************************************
This made me think: I do like defining myself in different ways. But if I had to choose, which comes first? My ethnicity? My religion? My gender? My family name?

How do you define yourself? And in what order?
*********************************************************************

Lemonaid

me-red-dc.JPG
I think I just figured it out. How to reconcile the conflict between ambition and Buddhism.

For a long time, I’ve read about this spirituality. There is a sense that one should allow “flow” to happen. To give and receive. To be a vessel. To end the struggle. Not engage in duality, by fighting the universe, fighting the circumstance, but to follow and embrace it.

And I see the value in this. I do.

But I’m a go-getter. A goal-setter. And I believe this is what makes me successful, passionate and interesting. Purpose. Definition. Decision. I decided to start a business and so I did. I decided to run a marathon and so I did. Those goals and results are primary points of my happiness and fulfillment.

And so, because I am always confused about this, I asked Sinan, the owner of the olive farm, a Buddhist-ish and generally spiritual fellow.

To allow my ambition, desire and decision-making to live harmoniously with my flow, I needn’t diminish either. I simply plant the seed of what I want with intention and specificity. But then allow the path toward my grand vision remain flexible.

I see.

************************************************************************

Here at the farm, there is the occassional conversation-killer guest. Someone who likes to rant in the opposite direction of the current. These people often keeps our food circle conversations from being pleasant cultural exchanges.

But last night, Sinan told us when talking about Yakabag (the G is silent), without reference to anyone in particular, that he has never asked anyone to leave. He knows that not everyone contributes in a positive way and that some people abuse the system. But he accepts each guest as part of the path.

Yes, still, I thought, if it was my house, why would I put up with someone I truly didn’t like—someone who clearly exuded a negative energy? Wouldn’t I let reality take over? But here we go headlong into the practice I just learned. Part of my specific goal in coming here was to engage in cultural exchange at this farm–and meals would be a great time for this. But this challenge is part of my path toward that goal. I must accept that breakfast, lunch and dinner will not be what I expected. And that if social enlightening between two people or a group are meant to be, another, more suitable scenario will surface.

Am I trying to make lemonade out of lemons? Yes, desperately. And we’re all out of sugar. Again.

But I’m receiving, I’m receiving. . .I am flexible on the path.

 

A little bit of Yakaba. . .

turkish-coffee-break.jpg

Turkish Coffee Break

m-erkan-pulling-olives.jpg

Ozan, Erkan, Michael & Onur hauling olives back from the orchard.

ezel-fire.jpg

Ezel making a fire in the wood stove.

andrea-olives.jpg

Me sorting olives in the sun.

michael-terrace-oranges.jpg

Svende & Michael peeling oranges for breakfast.